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Bateau Corsair 13 - Incc63's Builder's Blog
Haven't stopped building ... just got busy at work.
Some of the stuff I did:
Seats and deck installed
The mast step
Now I'm doing the mast. It will be a teardrop profiled mast
Flipped the boat over to work on the deck and seats. Turning it was quite a chore, so I've started to worry about the weight.
Don't have much time now to add to this blog so I'll bullet things for now:
* Removed material from the aft half of the deck in an attempt to lessen its weight. It is lighter now however still a bit heavy. Am now considering cutting holes in the hull frames to lighten the bow.
* Cutout the forward half of the deck
* Added stiffeners under the seats and hardwood framing around the holes in them
* Bought $20 worth of styroafoam balls to use as floatation foam
The weekend was two days longer from the observance of the Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. Although lots of boat building time was available, the CR13 did not progress as much since we used the Saturday and Sunday to put up a 22'x12' boatbuilding tent. This is getting to be "serious business".
On Thursday, I decided to remove the front deck support battens which erroneously followed the upper edge of the hull sides. The replacements follow the designer's plans which intersect the stem a few inches below its peak. The intersection of the battens at the stem and the peak of the frames that support the deck form a straight line.
We worked mostly on the daggerboard and rudder this weekend. Work went surprisingly fast since another brother in-law dropped by and helped out. Aside from the daggerboard and rudder, we were also able to do some work on the seats and deck.
After trying my hand at "sculpting" the daggerboard with an angle grinder, I decided to instead use the router. First I made the handle holes and used a large roundover bit to make nice rounded edges. Making the pofile was a bit more difficult. Of course I wanted to make a nice airfoil profile but later decided to use a simple varying straight line slope. This is the setup we used to create teh varying slopes:
Car was still in the shop. Caught the 5:45 "flight" and was home before 7 o'clock, man those taxis are fast. Called ahead on my cellphone to say I'd be home early and that tonight we'd put in some real work on the boat.
Earlier I had found that another builder had added tape where the plans did not show any. I thought why not. The tape will not add that much weight. If there is a next time, maybe I will rethink this decision because adding 3 layers of 6oz woven tape is really not that easy especially if you have to be bent over for long periods of time.
We did not quite finish all
I guess having the car in the shop has its advantages. I was able to get home early as the taxi driver drove much faster than I ever would.
We took off the rubrail clamps and scraped off the excess epoxy. They came in pretty OK I suppose. I started hand planning the top of the rail in preparation for running the router over them. Still thinking of what profile to use though.
Called it a night though after putting lines on the daggerboard blank. Cutting it will have to wait till daylight hours.
The weekend actually started on March 30 in the late afternoon. By Sunday afternoon, we'd roughly faired the glass seams to the plywood, sheathed the entire bottom and sides with 6oz. of glass, cut and installed the rubrails, started work on the daggerboard assembly.
My apologies for the terse blog.
Got home around 9PM but could not resist taking a look at how all the glass we did over the weekend settled. Found a few spots along the chine near the bow end where the glass lifted of a lower layer. Maybe putting too many layers one on top of the other particularly where legdes are formed is not a good idea. They are small enough to sand out and fill.
What I really wanted to see though was the inside seams we'd glassed on Saturday because I was worried that their hanging upside down all of Sunday may have separated them from each other or the wood. To do this however we had to flip the boat over, not an easy task now. I guess we were all tired because the boat slipped and fell about a foot or so to the concrete floor. It was the corner of the chine at the transom that got the brunt of the impact. To our relief, only a small piece of fiberglass at the edge of the tape chipped off. Having been curring for a whole week, it suppose the epoxy have fully cured. It was lucky that the bow end did not slip having just been glass the day before.
Got off to a slow start on Saturday having had a little too much to drink with the local boat builders. Just as well because the mid-morning heat was something awful. Finally got to the boat at 3 in the afternoon. Not wanting to stop as night fell, we broke out the 300 watts of metal halides I bought for our aquarium last Chirstmas (which due to this boat building itch have not had time to install) and worked till past 10PM. The cool evening breeze encouraged us on and we were able to finish all of the unglassed segments of the keel and chines joints, and most of the frame-to-planking joints. We did not glass the bow because I still had to decide what to do with the cracked bow panels. Surgery was still the favored option since it would be a permanent solution. However still being a bit skitish about taking an angle grinder to the hull, stayed my hand.
The epoxy guys delivered two more gallons to my office during our lunch break. This should be enough to finish the hull (I hope). We also discussed their paint system. Not surprisingly, their products mainly cater to the steel commercial ships. We finally settled on my needing about 1 gallon of primer, 2 gallons of paint and 1 of clear top coat. The top coat I understand it sacrificial since the UV will eventually degrade it. I'll look into other top coats, maybe there is one that is not affected by UV. Have to consult the girls (wife and daughter) as to the color.