Ebihen 15 launched

A few months have passed since launching "Alice Gale".    We have sailed in various bays and lakes from Newport Beach up to Seattle's Puget Sound.

Sailing on Shasta Lake, CA

The two year building of "Alice Gale" is documented on my blog: http://stansboat.wordpress.com/

Garage work continues

The garage construction was completed in March.  We got busy at work and I started working on the garage again off & on in September. I have buit a workbench and purchased a new table saw.  I have insulated and sealed the ceiling and am now working on the walls.  I want to keep the humidity at 50%.  I just got a used Shopsmith Mark5.  I am considering inviting my neighbors to help as a community boatbuilding project.  Maybe I'll get lucky and find one or two people who can help me occaisionally.

getting started

After waiting far too long i'm finally getting started building my first boat, a 12'5" marisol skiff. I havent picked a name yet but Patience seems apt. The first job i've undertaken is lofting the boat full size. I made a nice sturdy and level platform, painted it up and got started with the grid. i took about a week to meticulously lay out the boss lines and called in a pal to check my progress.  He found a couple of hard spots and discovered my battens were the problem; a little lumpy.  i remade those, tweaked the boss lines and it was off to the races with the waterlines. As i dropped the waterlines from the profile to the half breadths i made the joyous discovery of a cumulative error in my grid and the whole thing was off and useless. i just got back in front of the fire after repainting the board and am just chomping at the bit to restart the grid tomorrow.

terrible as it is it still beats work and i'm stretching a new part of my brain. 

Thistle 1040 - Transom glued in

transomToday I did the final fitting of the transom, squared up the hull and glued it in. The 2x6 and clamps you see are there holding the hull in the correct position. Thistles must measure in at the transom. The boat should be 4 ft. in width measured at the top of the sheer and the height of the transom should be 15 3/8" from the keelson to a line connecting the top of the sheer on each side. It's important to have the hull adjusted and set to these measurements before you start gluing.

For readers who've not done this kind of thing, here are a few tips.

Thistle 1040 has a new transom

new transom for thistleI finished sanding most of the inside of the hull and before sealing the interior with epoxy, needed to replace the cracked transom with a new one. So, after gluing up a few nice pieces of mahogany, I now have a new transom. I used the old one as a template and have a good fit with the new one. I'll glue it in this weekend.

I used this project as an excuse to buy a thickness planer and it did a great job of getting the planks ready for gluing. I've always wanted one of these and I found a good used one on Craigslist.



Finally began the process of creating the building frame and the moulds for the Whilly Boat. I am using what is now  billed as pine trim boards (mine are 2 x 6 in 16' lengths) for the building frame side beams, and yellow pine boards in 1"x 2" dimension for the diagonal bracing. I am using the same pine for the spreaders on the mould bottoms that will attach to the building frame. I have selected 1/2" MDF sheets in 4x8' to create the moulds.

Why a Whilly boat?

In the search for a boat to build, I was very interested in a Nordic style boat as I am 1/2 Norwegian and a few years ago I participated in a class put on at the San Francisco Maritime Museum by Wooden Boat School back in the east. We built a Nordic Pram, which was a lapstrake type fastened with copper rivets. It was a beauty, and so simple using just the eye and some bevel angles that the instructor had preselected. Hand tools were the only things we used to do the work, and in one week we had a boat to row in the bay.

I wanted something a bit more planned out for me, as there would be no instructor to keep me guided in the correct direction as we had in the city. I wanted a Nordic style, I have always liked double enders, and Iain Oughtred had some nice Nordic designs and plans for building that seemed to have a good level of detail.

I sent for the plans and when they arrive, I will be taking photos of the progress and post more news on this website. Stay tuned.

Thistle 1040 - restoration - stripping the old varnish and gunk...

thistle 1040 stripping varnishI have almost half of the Thistle sanded, removing the old finish and lots of barn dust. I removed the gratings and seats with supports on the port side and will continue with the starboard side. It's interesting that the seats and gratings were not glued in. Or, if they were, the glue had long since stopped adhering to the hull. I could have left the seats in but had to consider my goal in restoration.

I want to create the lightest, stiffest legal Thistle possible. I want it to last another 50 years with minimum work required to keep it in excellent racing condition.

9/25/11 - Albury Molds

Spent the day lofting out our first molds.  Neighbors were having a party, so rather than spoil there fun with a tablesaw, we quietly huddled over the MDF, drew grids, and played connect the dots. 

After 4 hours (!), we managed to layout the bow stations (on the plans, stations 12 and 14).  I think we both found it enjoyable work.   The plan for the next few weekends is to alternate between ripping/planing the lumber and creating the molds.

Hope to post some progress photos soon.

Rick & Christian

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My favorite epoxy?


EpoxyUSA.com Progressive Basic No-Blush Epoxy

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