Only a few minutes of extra time today but enough to scarf up the 1/2" left-overs to make the chine flats. Next I'll have to lay the material on the chine and scribe the curve and then loft out the wider section. I don't have the right router bit to cut the spline grooves so I'll have to take care of that. School's out in just over a week so I'm really ahead of the game. At this rate, I'll have a hull by July. That's encouraging.
I've been thinking about the cabin for the Jumbo. It would be nice to have more space on deck but the reality of it is we live in Oregon where it rains for 9-10 months of the year. The more comfortable the cabin area is, the more likely we will be to use the boat. This drawing compares the layout of the 22' C-Dory next to the tug-cabin on a Jumbo. I think this is a good solution.
Stitched up and she's starting to look like a boat now!
I've used this trick in the past to keep the panels aligned when stitching. Just lay a short 1/4" dowel in the space between the panels. This is fast and easy, keeps the panels from shifting while you tighten the wires and they are easy to grind off when you do the other side.
I spent the afternoon truing the jig and bottom and laying the fillet and tape on the center seam. Whoa! That's one big fillet!
It took a lot of epoxy, all of my sawdust flour and most of my colloidal silica. I made three batches of goopy stuff to spread with my 5 inch plastic blade. It took awhile to get it smooth and then I'm sure I messed it all up again when I put the tape on. The good news, I think I got all the air bubbles, all of the tape is saturated, all the tie heads are covered and the boat is nice and straight.
It took quite some time to get the 42" measurement 40" back from the stem and then to measure the bow angle. I made up a 55 degree jig to set up against the stem to check it and it seems that with the chines at the right place, everything is as it should be. Renn's notes say that the hull panels are expected to be 31 1/2" at this point. That means he lost 1/2" inch somewhere. I'm not sure about that. I did some fairing along the center but I'm still at 32". My measurement at the scarf was 60" instead of his 59 1/2" but I'm thinking that's close enough. I've got the plywood set aside and marked up for scarfing the chine flats but that will have to wait until tomorrow.
I've had only a short time to work over the last couple of days. I made cradles for the jig and drilled holes for the tie wires. I need to do a little planing on the 1/4" ply where the two sides join and do just a bit more fairing to help the two panels lie against each other snugly. I should have them stitched, filleted and taped this weekend. Then it will be time to read up on the chine extension. It would be great to have the whole bottom finished this weekend but I'm not in a hurry. It feels like the project is progressing well.
It took just a couple of hours to loft the panels and cut them. Really only a few minutes to loft and a few more to cut and a lot of time looking and measuring. It is SO COOL to lay the panels out side by side again and bring the tips together and, "HEY! It's a boat!"
Now I have to drill the holes for stitching the sides together. I'll have to get some wire for that tomorrow.
I got my versalam and I'm underwhelmed at the quality. I'm sure with all the verniers that it is stronger than a single fir board but it's also heavier and the sides are not as finished as I'd like them to be. No matter... This will be covered with glass and strength is a good thing for this part of the boat. It IS very straight and true in all dimensions.
Only a couple of hours to work this evening. I cleaned up the scarf joints with a hot air gun and sharp 3" putty blade. This saves LOTS of time later as it's hard to sand epoxy. I used West System's 403 additive which is an adhesive filler in the scarf/glue joints and that makes the sanding even harder. By scraping the excess glue off within 24 hours you save time vs. sanding it off later. The heat helps the warm epoxy come right off. It also helps to clean up any epoxy "drips" with hot air and the blade vs. sanding. Fir does not sand well so we'll try to avoid that.
The scarfing went well. I have two, nice, straight long panels. With just a little fairing they lie together with no gaps and I'm anxious to turn them into a boat bottom by cutting the curves and stitching them together.
I'm stumped when it comes to the numbers listed in the table for lofting the bottom panels. It seems that the 32" panels should come to a point but the offset values listed for station 0 don't add to 32". I've posted a question to the Tolman, Yahoo list and will see what those wiser than me have to say on the issue.
(UPDATE: Duh... I was thinking of distances from each side rather than the "one" reference side. Moral of story, don't cut when you're tired. Look at it again in the morning. I'm glad I waited!)
I got everything done this weekend that I wanted to. I scarfed up both sides of the bottom, built the jig and even had time to finish the "make your neighbor mad" tarp and garage extension that will make my house an eyesore for the next two years. Life is good...
End of Day:
Tomorrow I get the versalam stringer. That means that this week I'll shape those and layup the transom. I'll also make the forms for the hull on the jig. Renn said he had new numbers for an asymmetric cutout to better protect the hydraulic steering ram. "...46 inches with 30 to left of center. " Now I just have to look at the drawings and figure out what that means. I guess I have to actually start making some decisions soon.
Kicker? It makes sense to me to have a "get me home" on the boat. I wonder how much it takes to bring a jumbo to hull speed? I'll have to post a question to the Tolman list and get some good advice on that one.
I ordered two 3-gallon kits of basic no-blush epoxy from Progressive Epoxy. That brings me up to about 9 gallons which should keep me going for awhile. I'll never use epoxy that blushes again. This stuff is cheaper too. I really like the way it performed on my Thistle.
I started my Tolman project today. I got all the plywood for the hull, transom and sides as well as material for the jig. I ended up purchasing all marine ply from Mr. Plywood here in Portland. They had some nice Birch ply but I was afraid it would not be as rot resistant as traditional fir.
The garage is totally clean, the tools are in place, the sawhorses are made, the wood is here so I had to actually cut some stuff up. I cut two of the 1/2" sheets in preparation for scarfing tomorrow. It's a bit difficult ripping with my radial arm saw but that's all I have. I could use the skillsaw but after many years, I'm pretty good at it so I do end up with a better cut.