Sea Knight - Building Form Construction and Mounting the Frames

So I went downstairs and started working on my building form, one of the most important aspects of putting this whole boat together.  Must say I was glad it was a nice day out as I wasn't too impressed with what I ended up with.  I will cut myself a bit of a break as the parking spot I am working in has more little hills and valleys than the foothills and is definitely not level.

building form assembly

Had a bad feeling already at this point about how this was going to go, but had to keep going anyways.

building form assembly

Not complete, not even I could go any further.  As it looks there, believe it or not, it was perfectly level just not sure if it was at proper 90deg.  Somewhat solid, but nowhere near where it needs to be to build on.

building form assembly

Thistle 1040 - Fairing setback...

While sanding the starboard side of the boat today I noticed that a section at the bow was sanding poorly and that the eopxy had not fully cured. I put it down to poor mixing. I'll have to remove the epoxy and fairing from the front two feet of the boat and redo. I hate wasting time in this way but I'd much rather discover this now than after it had been painted. What a hassle that would have been?!!!

Thistle 1040 - Last round of fairing...

Thistle fairing

There are two kinds of fairing when refinishing a boat. When you're sanding with a long board you're working on the overall shape of the hull, taking down the high spots. Then you add filler to the low spots and try to get the curves and shape of the hull smooth and fair. We're past this stage now with the Thistle. After the fairing for hull shape was complete the hull was glassed with 6oz cloth and epoxy. 

Wednesday and she now has a Bilge Pump ....

Another step forward .... she now has a bilge pump .... always a good feeling to have a working bilge pump 

Back on her mooring and I'm back at the desk ...

Dennis worked on the bow today a rotten section of deck ... a temporary fix wile the transom is repaired fully ... more deck rot ... once the rot has been dealt with then it is putting the rebuilt engine back in and starting on the inside .... even though there is much of the deck and cabin to work on ... we need a bed and galley so we can camp on her while we work :-)

Monday and she is splashed

Today three weeks after coming out on the hard ... Marsude was splashed ... after much hard labour and many steps toward her full restoration ...

She has new Tassie Oak frames and stainless gussets and floor frames that should have been timber in the first place ... but now we just have to go with what is ...

Saturday ... the race was on

The race was on we had a few extra days so we thought we would do the topsides as well while she was out ... we were fortunate enough to have about a square metre that virtually fell off .. the rest was just hard scraping ... 95% ready for sanding and priming and hopefully we can fit in some filling ... but the main objective is to protect the hull ... till we are able to strip back , everdure, re-dynal where required and then finally paint :-)

Interior ... frame repairs have proven a bit of an achillies heel due to preparation and the application of everdure to replacement components ... the few finished frames feel terrific and solid ... tight :-) Steel work will resume once back in the water ... it's been alot of hard work ... but this is one hell of a boat and worth every moment of effort :-)  

Friday ... day off work

no photos ... too busy scraping the topsides ... on the outside and building beautiful frames insitu on the inside ... 

Thistle 1040 - Fairing begins...

Thistle fairingTaking advantage of a string of warm dry days in Oregon (if you lived in Oregon, you'd realize how strange is is to see those words all together) I started faring the Thistle. First I hit high spots with the long board and then sanded the whole hull with my Bosh 1/2 sheet sander. This is a great sander as it has a dust collector and uses 1/2 sheet of sand paper at a time. This helps in fairing and doesn't produce a wavey surface like a random orbital sander would.

Next the keelson and bow got a coat of epoxy and the first layer of micro-spheres and epoxy. It will take several layers to get things really smooth and then we'll sheath the entire hull in 6 oz. fiberglass cloth. It takes a good 24 hours for the epoxy to cure to a sandable finish. Then the long board comes out again.  

what next ...

What next on the outside? peel off the topside paint, repair dynal then undercoat and paint ... while on the inside timber frames are being repaired .... replacing the rotten out lamenated frames made of Maple of all things with Tassie Oak lamenated frames ... she is so worth it

Best Marine Epoxy

My favorite epoxy?

 

EpoxyUSA.com Progressive Basic No-Blush Epoxy

Google Search

Google

Syndicate

Syndicate content