It took me a whole day – about 10 hrs - to glass the entire hull in 2 layers of 10oz cloth. This is more and heavier cloth than the book specs, but I feel this adds a lot of strength, puncture resistance and moisture protection. I wanted to do this all at once if at all possible because doing it all together would ensure the best possible adhesion between layers – wet on wet (I didn’t know for sure if it WAS possible to do it all in one day).

The first hour of the day was spent carefully cleaning the hull (and I found a couple of spots I missed when sanding). The next 10 hours I spent applying 8 sheets of 25 foot long x 38” or 50” wide cloth. I used 50” cloth on the bottom so it would over lap the ‘keel’ AND the chine, and I used 38” wide on the sides that overlapped the 50” bottom cloth. I applied the cloth using Renn’s method – wet the hull with epoxy first (for the first layer), roll the cloth onto the wet epoxy, then roll on more epoxy to almost fill the weave. The next layer went on right over the previously wet-out layer and it stuck well. Then more epoxy to wet out the second layer.

In addition to the 2 complete layers over the hull, the overlapping at the chine and fairbody added 4 more layers of cloth to the 3 already on the ‘keel’ and 2 more layers to the 3 already on the chine – and everything interlocks. I also overlapped the bottom and the sides onto the transom. I was mixing epoxy 48 oz at a time and this turned out to be about the maximum I could physically apply before it started to gel.

I found that high quality ¼” nap paint rollers worked best for applying epoxy under these conditions. The “adhesive” rollers just don’t hold enough material and the cheaper rollers shed ‘fluff’ that mars the job. Altogether, I think I used about 6 gallons of epoxy and about 70 yards of cloth on this part of the job.